Ping An Ye Kuai Le!

"Happy Christmas Eve"! In Mandarin, "apple" is "ping guo" and the translation of Christmas Eve has part of the word "apple" in it..."ping". So what? It has become a tradition in China (mostly for the younger generation) to purchase red apples on Christmas Eve and give them to others as good fortune. I was a little skeptical, but as I entered the local cornerstore the other day, there was a tower of red apples in boxes, shaped like a Christmas tree. I almost bought one,but they were 10 RMB (about $1.50) each, and I can buy a whole bag of them minus the box at the market down the street. So I purchased some red apples (kind of pinkish-yellow really, but Red Delicious apples aren't for consumption in Beilun), and I took them to the Cup O' Joe staff this morning with a hesitant "Ping An Ye Kuai Le". They took them with smiles and Jack explained that a saying in Mandarin about "ping bao" also means protection, so there is also some kind of tradition about sleeping with the apple nearby on Christmas Eve and then eating it on Christmas Day. I smiled and thought, "When in Rome...." so perhaps we will be snuggling up with our apples tonight to reign in protection and good fortune for 2012.

Makes me wonder why we don't have some kind of mixed-up, loosely lost in translation tradition for Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) in the U.S.? The Chinese are much more knowledgeable about International traditions and celebrations than all Americans combined. For example, my Mandarin teacher, Shelley, was giving us a run-down of how to say different festivals/holidays throughout the year. Among those on her list were UN Day, Women's Day, and Children's Day...all Internationally recognized days of honor across the globe. She knew what they were called in English, Chinese and knew the dates they were celebrated from the top of her head. I was ashamed at how little I knew about the important days others' celebrate before I came to China. I have celebrated and learned more about Chinese, Indian, Muslim, British, and German celebrations while here than I ever did in the States. It's been nice to be able to be a part of it all and welcome others to be a part of our celebrations as well.

As I write, I am between cooking pulled pork (yes, Erich did all of the preparation, I am just watching it in the oven), mashed potatoes, brownies, zucchini bread, and green bean casserole for the Holiday Dinner we have planned for the cafe tonight. (Also on the menu, but being cooked at the cafe are: glazed ham, acorn squash, stuffed tomatoes, yeast rolls, wassil (spiced cider) and some other desserts). There are about 20 expats and Chinese locals joining us and contributing a variety of other holiday foods. Most foreign friends left for the holidays, so we have gathered up the remaining few who have to work or just opted to stay in Beilun for a proper holiday celebration with food, drink, music, games and enjoyment of our lives here in China.

We are so fortunate to have spent the past year and a half making friends that we consider family and to be able to spend this holiday season with them. 2011 has been good to us...Erich built a cafe from literally an empty shell of a building and has created a sense of community among the people in Beilun thatwas much needed, I have continued to grow and learn as the art teacher of creative, open-minded international students, and we both look forward to at least another year of adventures in China, as I recently signed a 3rd year contract to teach at AIAN.

I am off to prepare for the festivities...Christmas music and lights to help motivate me (I am my Mother's daughter as much as I sometimes deny it). We will be traveling to Guilin (Southern China) for 10 days to ring in the New Year, so will post again when we return on Jan. 6. Warm wishes of love, life, and happiness wherever your holiday celebrations take you...Ping An Ye Kuai Le (Happy Christmas Eve), Sheng Dan Jie Kuai Le (Merry Christmas), Xin Nian Kuai Le (Happy New Year), and all of the other Happy's/Merry's that you might celebrate this time of year :)

(Below are photos from 2 of our holiday parties from earlier this month...a potluck celebration/holiday trivia at our apartment for the AIAN staff and a holiday staff/customer appreciation dinner provided by Erich and Cup O' Joe.)

Kindergarten Klass

Walking into our apartment for the first time, one may confuse it for a kindergarten classroom. Shoes piled up at the entrance in no order whatsoever, piles of crayons, papers, and paints strewn around the easel and across the tables, one lonely sock peaking out from under the couch, looking for it's mate. Neither Erich or I can claim to be neat, tidy, or organized when it comes to our house, so we apologize in advance to anyone coming to visit. This is why we have an "ayi" here...to be our pseudo-mom and clean up after us when we are too busy or lazy to do it ourselves. As ashamed as we are to admit it, we need help keeping our house in order...some kids never grow up.

Beyond the messes we share with kindergarten living, we have also begun labeling items in our house with the Mandarin words/characters to help us learn the language. Friends come to visit and get a giggle from the labeled drawers of utensils telling you that "cha zi" = fork and the photo on the wall is of our "jia ting" (family). There are drawings of common clothing items with their Chinese names in the kitchen as well as a "family tree" diagram hung on the wall to learn the SUPER-specific names for family members (example: cousins have specific titles, depending on if they are on your mom or dad's side, as well as if they are older or younger than you, and male or female).

But hey, the labeling system works for new language learners in kindergarten, it should work for us too. So far, it's helpful, I just need to remember to look at and read the signs rather than glancing past them to other messes around the rooms :) Any suggestions for learning new langauges is much appreciated. I also take Mandarin classes twice a week with some friends and subscribe to a Mandarin podcast. Erich learns plenty of bad words and lingo from working at the cafe and communicating with his employees. As we anticipate year 3 in China, we are constantly looking for ways to grow and learn in this country we call home.

iNspIRaTioN

inspiration. we all need it...to do what we love and feel a sense of motivation and fulfillment. tonight i was inspired by a music night held at cup o' joe (erich's cafe). you know the feeling you get right after being inspired?...a heightened sense of life, head swimming with possibility,loving the life that has been given to you. that's where i am.

the night was full of spirit and passion...people, young and old, who played instruments and sang...all sharing their talents. students writing their own songs and passing around the guitar, scottish folk singers, christmas carols, violin, chinese melodies, piano symphonies. it was beautiful and wonderful and touched me to see so many people just enjoying life. no one could have been happier anywhere else.

inspired...not to pick up an instrument or sing, but to create something as beautiful and personal in my own way. it's been awhile since i have felt inspired to make my own art...not a teacher example or experiment for class. i need to make my own art. i need to find my voice again. how could it have been so long since i have made MY art? i guess i got lost in other things in life and forgot. how am i teaching art when i'm not even making it myself? it's time to start again and what better place than china where i am in a constant state of awe, inspired by everything that surrounds me? i don't know what i will make but i am inspired to start something. i want my head to swim again.

as my dear friend, and amazingly talented artist, Lauren Austin once told me though, art is hard work. i know that i was fortunate to receive this inspiration tonight, but i cannot just sit around waiting for inspiration to make my own art. i need to make time for art, i need to create even if i am not inspired, i need to find inspiration instead of sitting around and counting on it to fall in my lap. i will start small...but i am starting.

thank you erich for organizing this music night. i know i am not the only one inspired by it. i saw the smiles on faces, the pure joy in the voices singing, the soul in the feet tapping to the beat. this is what inspires us to live life. sometimes we just need a little reminder.

Communal Eating Habits

Eating. It's something we do to survive, to indulge, to cope, to socialize. Never in my life has eating become such an intriguing topic of conversation as it has since I have lived in China. Maybe it's because Erich now owns and runs a cafe/coffee shop, maybe it's because of all the new smells and tastes there are to experience in a new country, or maybe it's because there are so many foods we were used to having easy access to in the States and just can't find here...so when someone does, an entire celebration feast ensues to celebrate said food item. (This last example mostly refers to the Mexican Potlucks that spur up in our building. Cheese, tortillas, avacados, peppers, sour cream...all are rare, but more rare is someone willing to pay the ghastly prices of these items if they are found. Sowhen one ingredient is discovered and purchased, we join forces to come up with creative solutions for the other ingredientsand"voila", Mexican Night.)

Eating is no longer a solo event. We find ourselves making plans around meals. New restaurants pop up on the streets around our apartment like wildfire. So as soon as we see the ceremonial flowers outside of the front doors (indicating opening day), we are typically lined up at the door to try out the new tastes and experiences they have to offer. When we moved here a year and a half ago, our block had one pizza pub and one European eatery, the rest was local cuisine. Now there is Cup O' Joe (American breakfast and sandwiches), a Malaysian restaurant, Korean food, and a Chinese vegetarian place, among other new local places as well. We have probably visited every restaurant within walking distance, found our likes and dislikes, and continue to try out new places as they open. Our taste buds are always cravingnew anddifferent things.

But more than the food, what we go out to eat for is the company and socializing. Most often, we eat with friends from school, along the trail of a newly found hiking/biking trail, with Chinese friends, with staff at Joe's and other people we meet along the way. Entertainment in Beilun is not quite the same as Fort Collins, so if you want to hang out with someone, and you don't want to go to KTV (kareoke), a restaurant is one of the best places to do it. Locals are not too keen on hanging out in their home until you know them really well and bars/pubs just came into the Chinese culture in the 1980-90's, so they're not a hot spot to chill out unless you're only with foreigners. (Most of the Chinese girlfriends I have don't drink at all and if they do, it's a sip of wine and then juice or tea. And the Chinese men we've hung out with are the exact opposite...give them 30 minutes and a bottle of bai jiu and they're good to go!)

Beyond the eating out, I think "potluck' is on the top 10 words that I text these days. As mentioned before, ingredients that are hard to come by are best enjoyed in the company of friends, so we often find ourselves inviting others over to enjoy some chili, home brewed beer, or baked goods. Plus as the weather getscold and walking a distance to eat involves adding 4 layers to your ensemble, staying in and cooking becomes more and more enticing. We potluck with friends on a weekly basis and it has come to be something I look forward to...simply eating and chatting and sharing.

Sometimes we joke that we're living in the 1950's. We take the elevator up two floors and knock to borrow an egg...we skype a friend on the25th floor to see if he has cinnamon...neighbors ring our bell to share 10 oranges they were given among 30 they were just given as a gift from their boss.

Food sharing is a commonality that we encounter daily and although it may seem irrelevant, it seems to be a stark contrast from what I recall in the States. The whole style of "my meal/my plate/my dish" doesn't exist here. You order several plates at a restaurant, they go in the center of the table, and everyone shares. If you run out of something and want more, you order more. There is rarely "ownership" of food...it belongs to everyone and all are welcome to eat. I guess you could say it's communist China at it's best. But I see similar eating habits in our school cafeteria. One of the Japanese students will bring sushi rolls in their lunch and never eats them all...they are passed among friends from all nationalities to share and enjoy. He is not concerned about eating them all, or greedily hiding from everyone else the deliciousness. The favor is returned by other students who fill his bowl with noodles, and pour sweets into his hand. It is this open, generous spirit that I love about China and my school.

To end this random rant on the in's and out's of our Chinese eating habits, I will share my favorite thing about Chinese culture and food: In China, the best gift you can give someone is a box of fruit. They are relished, carried on buses/trains for trips to visit family members, and given to us as a greeting almost. "Hi friend, long time, no see...here, try this fruit. It is delicious. My wife just picked it from a tree this morning." I love it and the fruits I have received here are among the best I have ever eaten. Bon apetite...wherever you are eating in the world today!

Everyday Adventure

With the crisp, cool air beginning to break up the humid and wet fall, Erich and I were inspired to explore some newparts of Beilun last weekend. We saw a blurp in an expat magazine about a newly opened trail/park in Beilun, so we set off with a packed lunch and good spirits.

Of course, our taxi driver claimed to "know" this place as we showed him the Chinese name...so we were not surprised when he dropped us off in front of Harborland (the local amusement park) with a smile anda shrug of the shoulders. Despite our attempts to tell him this was a hiking trail, not roller coasters that we were looking for, he was sure this was the correct address.

We set off for an adventure, and this was the beginning. After wandering around the side of the amusement park, we found a huge lot of newly demolished old housing...a common sight around here. "Out with the old and in with the new" seems to be a sad but true way of life. We exploredthrough therubble, trying to find this "new trail" and actually caught a glimpse of some stairs that looked like they were going up the side of a steep hill...but there was a river running between us and it.

Eventually after walking up and down some other streets, we caught a glimpse of what looked like a new entrance gate to somewhere. The photo above shows our approach as well as the lovely sewage hole that is uncovered for anyone wanting to die a slow death by falling 10 feet into the depths of the Chinese underground. (Funny enough, we encountered 2 other sewage holes uncovered recently...a good reason to always look ahead and never go hiking in the dark here :) )

Anyway, the trail went up and down some large hills (read: LOTS of stairs) and had some great views of the factories, city, and countryside inBeilun. Totally worth the wandering aimlessly that morning. Highlight for me was finding some MONSTER grasshoppers and praying mantis. No joke, these things were huge and so cute.

This trail must have also been an old (and still used) burial site for several local families. As we walked along, we kept seeing a lot of orange peels, fake/real flowers and shiny, metalic paper...a sure sign of Chinese tombs. So it was no surprise when along the trail we found a few old tombs and then 10 feet later, more, and before we knew it, they seemed to be around every corner. I'd love to come back to the trail for "Tomb Sweeping Day" in the spring. This is a national holiday where the Chinese visit the tombs of relatives, clean the space and place items like fake money, flowers, fruits, etc on the sites of their ancestors. They do this EARLY in the morning and since most tombs are in the hills and countryside, it involves some hiking to get there.

As we followed the trail to it's end, we came out of the park and onto a street we were very familiar with...who knew it was that easy to get there? Haha, oh well.

In the name of Thanksgiving, I'll end this post by saying we're thankful for the endless adventures China provides us and the appreciation we have gained for simple pleasures in life.

Resolution

um, yeah. so since july a lot has happened and i have found i am not meant to be a blogger as you can tell from my neglect the past several months.

however, i have made a resolution...no need to wait for the new year. once a week. blog. anything. just blog. when we go home, we always forget all of the interesting things that happen to us and stories to tell. it's hard to recall all of our experiences in china, especially as they become more and more "normal" for us here, even though for our family and friends they are far from it. so i am trying to look upon china with fresh eyes and begin taking more photo/video of the life we live to help others see why we love it here so much.

so each week, i have decided to post SOMEthing. maybe a food we ate or a daily ritual, or a little story from work/school. a glimpse into our lives since we rarely are able to share it with you all other than a skype chat here and there.

so...here it goes. please feel free to hound me if i slack off in the coming weeks.

LOTUS root. a delicious and strange looking food that i have come to LOVE in china. erich has other feelings towards the vegetable, but we won't go there today. i first discovered it cooked in a soy type broth with carrots, onion and celery at school lunch one day. i was a little scared to bite into the large hole-y unknown, but as i did, there was a crunchy, fiberous texture that made me go back for more. i actually thought there was a hair in my food the first time i ate it, because as you bite into it and break the surface, the millions of little fibers inside are broken and separate, looking like little hairs on your food! the lotus root is what grows under the water of the lotus flower (of which there are TONS in our neighborhood let along all over china). Here is a photo of one blooming earlier in October around the corner from our apartment . there really isn't a ton of flavor to the vegetable itself. it just takes on the flavors of whatever you cook it with.

i kept wondering where people bought it in our town, as i never seemed to see the little slivers of swiss cheese looking veggie in the market or stores. until last weekend. elaine, a local friend and one of the TA's at our school, took me shopping and taught me how to cook some traditional chinese dishes. i asked her about the lotus root while wandering through the market and she showed me this. it was a series of many long, zucchini-shaped pieces joined together. the holes that are its signature had been camoflauged from me all this time.

anyway, we took it home and she showed me how to cook it with mushrooms, onion and tofu as well as some salt and oil to make a simple but tasty chinese dish. yum...thanks elaine!

Home Again

After a whirlwind trip back to the U.S., here we are again. Hard to believe that a year ago, we were nervously boarding a plane half-way around the world, not knowing what was in store for us. For certain, we did not think Erich would be running a Western cafe/community center that we love and is our home away from home. Nor did we think we'd be considering a third year here after my 2-year contract was up.

As we woke up this first morning back in China, a little groggy from our travels, I was uncertain how I would feel...un/comfortable? missing the U.S. already? excited? nervous? nothing? It was just another sunny morning, seventeen stories above the rest of Beilun. Took a shower, had my tea, did a little unpacking, made a list of things to do. It wasn't until I decided to leave and run errands that anysort of clarity came to me. I got my bag together, grabbed my bike, headed down the elevator and turned the old iPod on shuffle. As I mounted the bike and pushed off in front of our building, "Jai Ho" came on, the sun seemed to shine for me in a sky of blue dotted with puffy white clouds, and a breeze rushed through my sunglasses. I was invigorated. "Welcome Home" the morning seemed to be saying to me. I smiled, knowing that I was meant to be nowhere but here. These are the moments that anyone lives for...to feel that you have a place and purpose and that it is exactly where you are and what you are doing. These things change, but in this moment in time, I know this is my place and this is where I am happiest.

Our trip back to the U.S. was fabulous. Thank you to all of the friends and family that made time to hang out and catch up! And to those of you who we couldn't, know we were thinking of you and hope that next time we're back, we can meet up.

Having been out of the country for a year, there are definite differences that stood out as we entered the good ol' U.S. of A. Some more notable than others, some are expected while others may seem weird, but here goes my attempt at explaining a few:

1) Food. The most noticeable and consistent difference for me. The large portions, salt, sugar, and fat in our (American) foods is unbelievable. Also, we have a lot of pre-packaged, pre-cooked, preserved foods available both in groceries and in restaurants. Most chain restaurants in the U.S. don't really "cook" anything...they dethaw, recook and serve. All of the food items were already made and shipped from somewhere else. In Beilun, for the most part, you go to a restaurant and you can see the staff out back washing the fruits and vegetables. They are fresh and seasonal, likely bought from the same market that we go to. And it makes a difference...the food tastes better. Americans alsoeat very heavy and large portions. Erich and I went to a "Chinese" restaurant in Ohio to compare food and taste and found it to be very "Americanized". Almost none of the options were Chinese foods we had seen or heard of in China. They had more meat and noodles/rice with less vegetables than real Chinese food. The spices were too complex and overdone...too sweet, too salty, too much. The portion sizes were unbelievable...we left with enough food for 5 more people to have eaten. Ugh, and you just feel heavy when you walk out the door. No wonder after every meal in the U.S. Erich took a nap. So, yes, it looks like I'm hounding on American diet and food intake...because I am. I was also guilty of indulging in foods that are not good for you in amounts that exceed what I really need while in the States, but it left me wanting to go back to China...where there aren't McDonald's and Starbucks on every corner, where instead there are fresh fruit and veggie stands on every street, where the average local would prefer a large glass of fresh squeezed watermelon juice to a cola any day, where the average Chinese person doesn't know how to use a conventional can opener because they don't eat preserved foods. I bought a book called "The End of Overeating: Taking Control of the Insatiable American Appetite" at the airport to learn more about this. I'm about halfway through and would highly recommend...it focuses on the brain science behind our eating patterns and decisions in the U.S., how our foods have been engineered and changed over time, and the ways that the food industry and society support these habits. Very eye opening.

2) Seclusion.In China, you can't go a day without talking to and interacting with many many people. You go to the store and talk to the taxi driver, you have a drink at Cup O' Joe and a curious Chinese person comes over to chat, you ride your bike down the street and see a family you know so stop to ask how summer is going. I found that in the U.S., you could easily go through your entire day without much interacting at all. Maybe it's having our own cars that makes this somewhat of an issue. When you take a taxi or bus, you're communicating to others where you want to go, where are they going, directions, etc. In your own car, you are alone, you make the decisions without having to explain, and as you drive on the highway to your destination with your window up and AC on, you find yourself in a bubble away from the rest of the world. Other than that, there are our houses...in China, most everyone lives in high rise apartments. You know your neighbors, you see them in the elevator and walking around the neighborhood. You interact. In the U.S. your house is separated from your neighbors by land, fences, and plants. We actively seek this seclusion and privacy and now-a-days, neighbors sometimes don't even know each other. Maybe some of it also stems from the fear and crime that our (American) society sensationalizes...which leads me to my next observation...

3) Crime and safety. I have yet to feel in danger or feared crime in China. It is so safe here...no one, not even police, carry a gun, incidences of robbery/thieves are rare, and the people make deals based on mutual trust and keeping your word. When fishing in Arkansas this summer, Erich and I saw a large rifle peaking out from a blanket where we checked in for poles and a boat. Huh? Really? Why? That alone struck me with more discomfort and fear than any and all situations I've experienced in China. In Beilun (about 600,000 people), kids can safely play all around the neighborhood without fear or restriction (just watch out for the unruly motor bikes), you can travel, walk, or bike alone at all hours and feel secure even if you're lost, you can disagree with a local and not fear they will pull a gun or harm you physically. The number one crime in China (according to a few Chinese friends) is embezzlement and bribery. While these are not admirable crimes in any way, I will take them any day to the murders, abuses and robberies you see in America every day.

4) Personal space and courtesy. So I've been pretty anti-U.S. in my blog so far...apologies...I really do love America; but I love China too (and China has faults of it's own...trust me). One thing that I do miss and wish there were more of in China is the recognition of personal space and courtesy to other people that Americans have. For example, during my trip to the store this morning in Beilun, I was nearly t-boned by a car who wanted to drive on the sidewalk where I was riding my bike, I had loads of people running into me without looking or recognizing that I existed in the store, and it is not uncommon for someone to literally pick up items in my cart and rummage around to see what I've decided to purchase. Yes, this is what makes China China and yes, I do kind of enjoy it (it adds to the lack of isolation as stated earlier), but sometimes an "Excuse me", or "I'm sorry" would be nice. I've learned to deal with it here and "feel the love" of the Chinese wherever I go, but it is a big change.

5) Last and most important, friends and family. We have been lucky to have developed a great network of friends and sense of community here in China, but we still love and miss the family and friends from the U.S. It was refreshing to be in the comfort of our family and friends for the past 2 weeks. It had been a year and catching up with many of you was long overdue. We realize how much we are missing out on the lives of those who are most important to us by being so far away. We can't be there to welcome a newborn into the family, to join in on traditions of the holidays, to help a loved one who is sick, or to just grill out and catch up on the lives and thoughts of friends. It's a big bummer, but at the same time, we are enjoying the opportunities to make new friends and have unforgettable experiences and memories with them in China. Thank goodness for Skype, Facebook, email and Magic Jack, but we can always use more time with you all. So don't hesitate to send us emails, respond to this blog, just say hey on Facebook, or forward photos of what's exciting in your world. We love you all and cherish any time you make for us.

Gender Bender

So we're in China...sometimes I have to remind myself. You get into a routine and get settled in and occasionally, I have to remind myself out loud that I, indeed, am teaching and living in China. Life goes on no matter where you are. You work, you go to the grocery, you explore and bike, you visit with friends...it becomes just another day.

And then there are times when I am reminded of my whereabouts through the stark differences in mindset and lifestyle that I sometimes encounter with our friends here. For example, in one recent conversation with a Chinese friend, we began discussing families and children. He asked if Erich and I had considered babies and, having to explain our current (and possible long-term...sorry mom) aversion to starting a family, I returned the question to my newlywed friend. He informed me that, yes, in a year or so he and his wife would likely start a family of their own. Oh, and they would have a boy. This fact, he was confident in. I unintentionally giggled at this comment and continued to inquire. "Well, you never know...you have a 50/50 chance. But if it's a girl, you'll still love it just as much" I stated with certainty, waiting for his reply. He laughed, shook his head, and made a noise, which I took as a sign that this possibility was not something he was comfortable with and it was actually ridiculous for me to suggest. He went on to explain that he had never even considered the possibility of having a girl, because he was sure he would have a boy that was strong and good. And that a girl would not be good and would not carry on his name and that he didn't think he would love her the same as a boy...but in the end, it didn't matter, because he would have a boy, so this conversation was pointless.

We changed the subject.

But it still lingers with me, weeks later. And I am reminded that I am living in a place that has a one-child policy still in place. That when I meet a new, local friend and begin a basic conversation...asking the question, "do you have brothers/sisters?" is almost always a silly question with which they answer "no" and give a strange look like "why would I?". It took me a few months to remember not to ask that, as it was not a point of conversation in China.

I am also reminded that it is currently illegal for women to get a sonogram to find out the sex of their baby in China. Sadly, this is because many who would learn that they were having a girl would find ways to terminate the pregnancy before the child was born...in order to have the chance to have a boy in a second pregnancy.

I have read in several books about China that the number of males to females here is grossly imbalanced because of these cultural practices (however, several of my Chinese friends deny this fact, stating statistics that the government has published claiming that the ratio of males to females is nearly equal). In the publications I read (which are sent or brought to me from the States, as most of them are illegal and do not meet censorship criteria), millions of men will not have a mate in the near future, simply because there are not enough women in China. There is speculation of what this will do to this massive country...higher crime rates? a harder working and larger working class? rise in prostitution? I don't know, but it bothers me. I love so much of the China I live in. I want it to live up to the "forward thinking" and "progressive" lifestyle that it advertises all over...but I find it challenging to accept that this basic gender bias exists in the homes of so many these days. Of course, this does not represent the actions and opinions of everyone in China...we have local friends who feel and think differently. But I believe they are the exception, not the rule.

As an independent and thoughtful woman, I find this topic intriguing and unsettling. I have a hard time wrapping my head around it, so I have been reading a lot of books about Chinese culture and having conversations with local friends to understand. I usually end up with more questions than answers. So much of the current lifestyle and thought in China stems from policies and events of the Cultural Revolution and Mao. Maybe I didn't pay attention much in HS World History, maybe it was never taught, or maybe it's because I am now living and breathing this stuff...but I wonder how I didn't know these things before. China is so unique in it's politics and social standards. In some ways, they have changed dramatically since the 1950's and in others, we might as well have frozen time. I am consumed by trying to understand ways China's recent history is impacting its present and future.

So I sit here on my couch, drinking my morning tea...just as I have in Colorado or Ohio in years past...feeling like I could be anywhere participating in my morning routine. Just another day...?

Changed Perspectives

Living in another country, any country, is bound to teach you new things, open your eyes to new ways of living and change your perspective on who you are and what your role is in this world. If it doesn't, then you're not truly "living" in another country.

We learn small things every day here that alter our preconceived notions of how daily activities must be performed.

• We were surprised when we first went to purchase trash cans at the store and all they sold were really small ones. But it makes sense now...first, this allows us to monitor how much we really are wasting and tossing out and reevaluate what we're consuming. Second, we take our trash out on a regular basis now...it doesn't really smell and the house stays cleaner because waste stays in the apartment for less time. Third, the "trash man" makes his rounds to our apartment at least 3 times a day. He rides his pedicab cart around the neighborhood and sorts through everyone's "trash" to pull out recyclables. This way, the recycling is done for everyone and there is never a pile of waste or a dumpster of stench sitting outside our apartment building.
• Grocery shopping is done almost daily by the Chinese. You buy what you need for that meal/day and that's it. Every trip to the grocery can be done using the little hand baskets...rarely have I seen a local with a cart full of goods (exceptions = rice and oil). I have still yet to master this and often shop only once a week, but I see the value and meaning in this shopping ritual and I have high hopes to master it in due time. 1) While more and more Chinese are purchasing cars, many still rely on bikes, buses, foot, or taxi...buying a load of groceries at once is illogical for someone who can't fit them all on their bike. 2) Buying too many groceries at once means the food is that much less fresh the longer it sits in your kitchen. Why buy Friday's groceries on Monday when you can buy them on Friday and they'll taste that much better? Plus, there are so many fresh, local fruit and vegetable markets around...why would you want anything less than fruits/veggies picked that day? 3) If the food sits too long, it rots and is wasted. There aren't the level of preservatives in foods/produce in China as there are in the States. The food tastes more natural and subconsciously I feel better about what I'm eating, knowing that it wasn't genetically enhanced or altered to look nicer or last longer. But it also means it goes bad quicker. No sense in buying your eggplant for next week when it will be floppy and soft way before then.
• I have never been more content NOT having a car. Actually, I've never been "without car" in my life until now. Since I was 16, I've owned a vehicle and relied on it to get me everywhere. I never realized the stress that comes along with it. Yes, it is convenient...and in most of the U.S. it is unfathomable to be able to get around without your own car (we have SO much to learn in terms of public transportation). But along with the freedoms having your own car brings, there is the cost of gas/insurance/car payments/maintenance, the stress of being SO dependent on something that could pop a tire, blow a belt, or do any number of things to completely alter your daily activities...not to mention the fact that you always have to have a DD or other plans when you're out for the night having some drinks :) While it's somewhat alarming to see the transition of the Chinese culture to a car consuming society, they still have public transportation that will do you just fine if you want to avoid the chaos of driving yourself around. Buses, pedicabs, taxis, eBikes, walking, subways, trains. You can get anywhere in this enormous country (and for very cheap) without your own car. I have so enjoyed riding my bike, getting my very own Chinese bus pass, and just walking to get where I need. It has definitely changed my perspective on where I want to live and work if/when we move somewhere else...living somewhere close enough that I can bike to/from work/grocery/restaurants/friends is a priority. (Fort Collins, I never appreciated or made use of your wonderful bike-friendliness until now :) )

Oddly, while living in a country that has a reputation for it's unregulated pollution and lack of personal hygiene (I can't argue against either of those claims...both unfortunately very true), I have come away with a stronger desire and appreciation for a more sustainable way of life. Less waste...buy/eat local and fresh...use public transportation. I admit this is not something I imagined I'd learn here. I thought after living in Fort Collins, CO that I already knew, understood and appreciated how to live "greener"...but honestly, I didn't embrace it as fully as I should have or could have. I sometimes imagine life back in FoCo and how amazing it would be to ride my bike everywhere, shop at the farmer's markets, and be a part of a CSA...why wasn't I doing more of that when I actually lived there???

I guess all I can say is "Thank You, China" for this change in perspective.

Home is Where the Food Is

A few weeks back, a local friend of ours, Jacky, invited us over to his home to join in on a traditional Chinese feast of foods. Upon arrival, we got the grand tour of his new apartment, were treated to teas/beers, and lookedat engagement photos of he and Zhou (his fiance)...which by the way, the Chinese don't kid around about. These photos were bono-fide professional, straight out of an advertisement or high fashion photo shoot. Apparently, ALL of the Chinese do this when they get engaged. We've seen them out with their entourage on nice days...make-up artist, costume changes, trunks of photo equipment...it's fabulous :) Anyway, they looked like rock stars and we are so excited to be going to their wedding on April 24...another post about that I'm sure.

Back to the food though. As we sat at the table with Zhou and her sister, table FULL of bowls with delicious little treats (some identifiable, while others remained a mystery hiding under sauces and breading). Prawns, fruit cakes, edamame, corn, rice noodles, bamboo shoots...we barely had room for a small bowl to eat from. Using our manners, we let our mouths salivate as we waited for the host, Jacky, to join us from the kitchen. After awhile, Zhou, who speaks little English, yelled into him, which prompted him to tell us to PLEASE start eating, he would be in the kitchen awhile longer cooking the rest of the meal. THE REST? "You mean there's more?" We inquired. Sure enough, as we ate to our hearts content, large bowls were condensed to small bowls, small bowls were emptied and taken from the table, only to be replaced by more large bowls of hot food. Fish soup, sweet, sticky rice, cooked green vegetables, shrimp...the mound of disembodied/inedible seafood parts was growing in front of Erich each time I looked over. I was pleasantly surprised to see that as I glanced at Zhou's small-framed sister, that her pile was twice as tall as Erich's :) And since Zhou is also somewhat of a vegetarian (who only eats seafood), there were vegetable options galore. By the end of the meal, of course, we made room for a few beers and card playing, but I don't think you could've fed us another bite.

Something about that night made it feel like home...a home away from home. Granted, the food was different than what most American families would cook for a get-together, but the love and care that went into the meal was there. It was the best meal I've had since we've been here and it wasn't necessarily because of the food (which by all means was absolutely delicious...I made Jacky promise to give me some lessons so that I could cook some proper Chinese meals for our family/friends this summer). The spirit of friendship and family was there.

And now, with Cup O' Joe up and running, we hope we can offer the same sense of belonging, family, and support to locals and expats that our friends in China offer to us. Week one has passed and the cafe has easily become a go-to spot for many locals to grab some fresh bread, get their caffeine fix, or use a non-squat toilet :) They even got a shipment of what I call "monkey bread" from the French bakery that the cafe purchase breads/pastries from. I never thought I could feel my grandma next to me when she is so far away...as I bit into a slice of the nutty, cinnamon-y, carmelized goodness, I closed my eyes and was transported to her kitchen early in the morning, with the smells of coffee and sounds of morning chatter in the background.

Food is universal. Love is universal. We are lucky to be surrounded by lots of both.

Little Business in Big China

I find it redundant to apologize AGAIN for belated blogging, so will skip that whole paragraph and hope that someone is still checking in occasionally to see what we're up to. Just know that this is not abnormal...expect random and monthly (or longer) updates.

Starting 2011 in China has been full of surprises to say the least. It's official that Erich and his local Chinese business partners are starting a small coffee/sandwich shop in Beilun! Construction is nearly complete and opening day is scheduled for early April. It's been an interesting process watching it all happen so fast and learning the intricacies of turning an empty storage space into a western cafe/community center in the middle of China. They're calling it "Cup 'O Joe", but I'm sure the locals will have a name they call it based on the food or look of the store front...just like we do with the local restaurants whose signs are all in Chinese. There's the "white tablecloth" place that has good qie zi (eggplant) and some crispy rice dish that Erich goes crazy trying to describe in broken Chinese because we still don't know the name...and the 2-story "spicy" restaurant on the corner...do I need to explain that one? I could go on for awhile, but the point is that I am just as excited to hear what the locals call the cafe as I am for the place to open. The overall concept is to create a "community center"/restaurant for expats and locals to interact. Along with the variety of deli cheeses and meats that you can't get unless you have time for a 4 hour drive to Shanghai for lunch, the cafe will have a DVD/book exchange wall, free Chinese and English lessons, a "craigslist-esque" message board, and resources for local hikes, explorations and guides to Beilun. So, yeah, it's like any other crunchy granola, poetry reading, web-surfing cafe in the States...but we're in small town China, so this is the one and only of its kind. Are the Chinese ready for this?...I guess we'll find out. So needless to say, Erich has been busy with designing the floorplans, pricing out a menu, schmoozing with the locals and expats, and recently they've been interviewing for employees. Wish him luck and we'll update you after opening day :)

Cheers to 2011

Happy New Year! Erich and I celebrated in true Chinese fashion...freezing half to death and hardly recognizing the day is any different from the one before or after it :) We did, however, depart from Beilun to explore some parts of China. I mean, how can you live here for at least 2 years and say you've never been to see the teracotta warriors or the Great Wall? We figured we might as well check it off of our list while all the Chinese locals are working and it's too cold for tourism to be very high. Boy were we right! Xi'an and Beijing were absolutely, bone chilling cold...but the days were crisp and clear, the air quality was at it's highest, and we had plenty of room to explore and see everything without other tourists elbowing us along the way.

The first leg of ourholiday journey was Xi'an. Here, we trekked to see the teracotta warriors...amazing. My favorite part of the whole trip by far. To see the massive task these people undertook thousands of years ago was beyond comprehension. And it's all still a work in progress...after all, the site was only discovered in 1974. We saw plenty of ruins still being uncovered and archeologists putting together the pieces as we visited. The most interesting thing to me was the personality and individualism put into each warrior. No two are the same and their stances/facial expressions tell a story about who these people were and the times in which they lived. We were in awe and spent enough time there to let our fingers and toes go numb before catching the bus back to our hostel. A truly amazing experience.

Xi'an is not just known for theterracotta warriors, the city was the old Western capital of China. The ancient city wall is still standing and surrounds the city proper. Erich and I bundled up, after a night of teaching local Chinese men how to play card games like spoons and mushroom, to rent bikes and ride along the top of this city's fortress wall. It took about 90 minutes to bike the entire perimeter and it was a refreshing way to see Xi'an from an elevated view. We had the opportunity to see the locals preparing to celebrate the Chinese New Year in a few weeks...we are so excited to see the elaborate decorations, fireworks and food!

The trip to Xi'an was short but sweet. We took an 11 hour train ride from there to Beijing for the next leg of the trip. The train was fine...nothing luxurious and we slept most of the way. The highlight was sharing a room with a man from Tibet who spoke some English and pardoned the little (and broken) Mandarin Erich and I try to speak. He was so calm and peaceful in the way he spoke and shared pictures and stories of his home. He kindly gave us a large bag of yak meat and a box of Tibetan tea...after which Erich and I panicked..."What do we have to give him in return? Our backpacks consist of dirty socks and toothbrushes..." Cultural faux pas #1: Never travel without small gifts to exchange in China. We offered a miniature terracotta warrior figure we boughtas a souvenir in Xi'an, and he (likely knowing it was a mass produced tourist lump of clay), "left" it on the train as he exited in a few stops. Kind man, kind heart.

Anyway, we arrived in Beijing fullof excitement...we had 6 days to see all we could, visit with Erich's aunt and uncle who were flying in for a few days, and compare Beijing to its rival Chinese city, Shanghai, which we have visited 3 or 4 times already. A friend of a friend kindly gave us a run down of the city our first day in. Among the many stops we made, she took us to the "meat street" vendors. You may have seen Anthony Bourdain or more likely Andrew Zimmern perusing these stands on TV. "Sir, some seahorse? Perhaps a centipede? These bull testicles are of the highest quality!" Needless to say, I ate some vegetable dumplings and steered clear. Erich, on the other hand, was in heaven. He tried a few meats and let Anna and I squirm at his considerations.

We were so happy to see some familiar faces the next day! We met up with Erich's Aunt Sheila and Uncle Bob, who were kind to brave the wind and cold to spend some time exploring with us. They really made it feel like the holidays for us and we cherished the 3 days we spent with them! First stop was the Forbidden City on what ended up being our coldest day traveling. Imagine being in a place where, only a few hundred years ago, only the emperor and his royal staff were allowed. We tried putting it in perspective and compared it to being allowed access to the private quarters of the Vatican or the President, but it still didn't compare. Some of the actions and decisions (for better or for worse) made in the places we were standing have changed Chinese and World history as we know it. Everything we saw and felt there was quite impressive.

New Year's Day was spent exploring the Summer Palace of the Empress and getting to the Great Wall. We could not have asked for a more perfect day...the sun was beaming down on us, the skies were clear as ever and blue as can be. It was still cold, but the wind had disappeared and made it bearable to be outside for more than an hour at a time. After a 2 hour drive outside of Beijing, we arrived at a section of the Great Wall. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was pretty dead there. I guess those are the perks of traveling to the Great Wall #1: on New Year's Day, and #2: in the middle of one of the coldest weeks in Beijing. I was expecting throngs of tourists and having a difficult time getting a photo without all of the people swarming...I was glad to be proved wrong :) As we approached the ascent, we were informed and saw photos that, yes, this was where Bill Clinton had also visited. (They love that man in China.) The view from on top was breathtaking. We could see rows and rows of mountains in the distance...made me wish I was back in Colorado. The wall meandered and wiggled its way on top of the peaks surrounding us and there was a peaceful calmness as we walked along this wonder of the world. It was magnificent and we are looking forward to going back and hiking it or maybe camping out along the wall.

A little mythbuster action (on behalf of Erich) concerning the Great Wall of China:

1) Yes, you can see the Wall from space. However, you can also see many other manmade structures...bridges, major highways, etc.

2) There are not a load of dead bodies (of those who constructed the Great Wall) buried under the wall. #1: If this were true, it would affect the structural integrity of the Wall. #2: Ewww, gross, who does that?

3) Much of today's current Great Wall was rebuilt in the 1980's. The original 2000 year old wall only exists at the base of the current wall.

4) There is no ONE Great Wall of China. It is in actuality several walls that branch off and separate from one another. If anyone has claimed to have hiked the entire Great Wall from end to end, they are lying to you.

Thank you, Erich.

Last days in Beijing consisted of exploring weekend markets, museums, temples and of course, Tianaman Square. I was hoping for some kind of action on the square...even if it was just street performers and vendors. Nope. It really is just a huge parking lot with an evil history...with Mao watching over (both literally and figuratively...his portrait is hanging at one end and his mummified body is on display for viewing on the other end). The security is more than I have ever seen in all of China combined. Guards everywhere, 10 cameras on each lamppost, metal detectors, police vehicles cruising the perimeter...you'd think Mao himself was about to rise from the dead and wreak havoc on the Chinese again. Was the security like this before 1989 as well? It was both the most uneventful and potentially eventful place we visited.

Returning back in Beilun, we really felt more "at home" than ever before. After seeing some more of China, we appreciated where we live and the people in our town. There is a comfort in small towns (of 600,000 people) that you don't get in the big cities. Yes, we got our fill of ethnic foods and consumerism in Beijing and Xi'an, but there's something about the smile of taxi drivers who know your name that we can't find anywhere but in good old Beilun :)